The deep-fried risotto and breaded balls aren’t as small as arancini as you’re accustomed to. They’re big and hearty! The recipe, courtesy of Los Angeles chef Evan Funke, is based on the enormous teardrop-shaped arancini of Pasticceria Savia, a patisserie located in Catania, Sicily, that has been in operation since.
The arancini cook crispy as well, and crispy on the exterior and inside is the most delicious, savory filling made of tender beef ragu, melting cheese, and peas. Be sure to reduce the Ragu to a thick sauce for the arancini (denser than what you’d generally prefer for pasta) so it’s easy to portion and stuff into.
A note from Food & Wine Test Kitchen Food & Wine Test Kitchen
Caciocavallo cheese is a firm cheese with a mildly spicy buttery taste. It is a curd cheese stretched out and formed into a ball, then hangs to dry. It is available on the internet from Murray’s.
A suggested pairing
We recommend sweet, dark-fruited, and toasty Nero like Feudo the Montoni.
Ingredients
Ragu
- 2 pounds boneless beef chuck, cut into 1-inch cubes
- 1 3/4 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
- 5/8 teaspoon black pepper, divided
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
- 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion (from 1 medium onion)
- 1/2 cup finely chopped celery (from 2 medium celery stalks)
- 1/4 cup finely chopped carrot (from 1 medium carrot)
- Two tablespoons of tomato paste
- 1 cup (8 ounces) good-quality dry red wine
- 2 cups tomato passata (from 1 [24-ounce] bottle)
- 2 cups beef broth
Risotto
- 5 cups chicken or beef stock
- Two tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion (from 1 small onion)
- 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
- 2 cups arborio rice (about 13 1/2 ounces)
- 1/4 cup (2 ounces) dry white wine
- 2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated (about 1/2 cup)
- 2 ounces pecorino Romano cheese, grated (about 1/2 cup)
Arancini
- 4 ounces caciocavallo or provola Ragusana cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup)
- 1/2 cup cooked English peas
- 1 cup 00 flour (about 4 ounces)
- 1 cup water
- 2 cups plain breadcrumbs
- 12 cups neutral oil, such as sunflower
- Kosher salt To taste
Directions
Make the Ragu
- Sprinkle the beef with 1 1/2 teaspoons of salt and 1/2 teaspoon of black pepper. Warm two tablespoons of olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed saucepan on medium-high. When the oil is heated, add the beef slowly and cook, rotating it now and then until it is thoroughly brown on both sides, about six to 8 minutes. Make sure you don’t overcrowd the pot. Work in batches if necessary. Transfer the browned meat to a bowl and put aside.
- Reduce heat to medium and then drain any grease. Add the remaining two tablespoons of olive oil. Mix the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon of black pepper in celery, onion, and carrots. Cook on medium heat, stirring frequently, until the vegetables have caramelized and deep golden brown, approximately 10 minutes. Stir in tomato paste. Cook, stirring continuously, till the paste begins to adhere in the middle of the pan, around 2 minutes. Add the red wine and then stir it in immediately. Allow to simmer, stirring frequently until reduced to about half, between 2 and 4 minutes. Stir in tomato passata and beef broth. Bring the broth to a boil over medium. Add the seared meat, and then reduce the to low heat. Slowly simmer the Ragu on low heat for between 30 and 3 hours, stirring frequently until the beef is incredibly tender and soft. Ragu should be pretty thick; however, if it’s reducing too fast, cover the pot with the lid. Sprinkle with salt according to your preference. Remove from heat and allow to the temperature cool until room temp, approximately 1 hour.
- Once the meat has cooled, cut the meat into smaller pieces. Take 2 cups of Ragu, keep it covered and chilled for at least two hours or, ideally, overnight. (The Ragu will be best when it is the day after.) The remaining Ragu can be saved for another use.
Create the rice
- Ensure the stock is simmering in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Reduce to low so that it remains warm.
- In a big heavy-bottomed saucepan or Dutch oven at medium-low until it becomes frothy but not browning. Add onions, then cook, stirring regularly, until tender, about 4 or 5 minutes. (No color should emerge.) Add 1/4 teaspoon salt.
- Add rice, stir, and simmer, stirring continuously until it is toasted and warm at the point of contact, around 2 minutes. Add white wine, then cook, stirring constantly, until dry, approximately 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low. Add about half a cup of stock to the rice using a spoon. Continue stirring until the stock has reduced to semi-dry. Add a second one-ladleful (about 1 cup) of stock. Continue cooking and stirring until the stock is fully absorbed. Continue cooking, adding stock and stirring frequently until the rice is cooked to al dente, between 18 and 20 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. The flavor should be good, but maybe a bit underseasoned. (Remember that cheese with salt will be added in the future.)
- Remove the rice from the stove, cover it, and allow it to sit in the refrigerator for five minutes. In 5 mins, test the rice’s doneness. The rice should be cooked, but not too hard. Add Parmigiano and Pecorino cheeses. Place rice on a baking sheet with a rim lined with parchment. Spread it out in an even layer and place aside to cool until room temperature, approximately 30 minutes.
Create the arancini
- Put the 2 cups of reserved Ragu, the diced cheese, and the peas in separate bowls. The risotto should be divided into 12 (1/2 cup) pieces (about 3 1/2 ounces each). Set the risotto balls onto a clean baking sheet.
- Grab one of the risotto balls and spread it evenly on your palm. Spread about two tablespoons of Ragu, approximately one tablespoon of cheese (3 to 4 cubes), and around one teaspoon of peas in the middle on the rice. Make sure to bring the Arancino in one piece by cupping your hands gently using the rice. On the opposite hand, seal the top of the Arancino, creating an open round shape similar to tennis balls. The ball should be rolled between your hands to ensure it’s even and compact. When it is closed and moved, shape it into a conical shape. Place one rice ball into the palm of one hand. Then, using another hand, slowly turn the ball to form the shape of a cone until an even body is formed. Put the cone back onto the baking sheet and repeat with the remainder of the filling and rice ingredients to create 12 Arancini. Cool the arancini to dry at room temperature, with a lid for one hour.
- Establish a dredging area. Mix the flour with 1 cup of water into a large bowl, whisking until the mixture is smooth. (The mixture should have a thick, creamy consistency.) Set aside. Place breadcrumbs in an unattractive dish. Dip one Arancino in the flour mixture, ensuring evenly. Let excess go away. Transfer the Arancino onto breadcrumbs and press the breadcrumbs with gentle pressure on the surface of the Arancino to make sure it is adhered. Return the breaded Arancino to the baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining arancini. Cool the arancini with breadcrumbs with a lid, then place them at room temperature until they are set for approximately 30 minutes.
- In a wide heavy-bottomed, heavy-bottomed pan at medium-high until 325 degrees Fahrenheit. When the oil is heated, and the Arancino is cooked, slowly lower it one at a time into the oil with the slotted spoon. The arancini are fried in batches until crispy and golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the arancini from the oil and drain onto an unlined tray lined with paper towels. Sprinkle immediately with salt. Allow the arancini to sit for two to three minutes. Serve hot.
